Your first car shouldn't cost more to insure than it does to buy.
We only shortlist cars that pass three tests: cheap to insure, cheap to fill up, cheap to fix. No boy-racer traps, no hidden running costs, just solid first cars.
Built round the three costs that actually sting
Everyone talks about the price on the windscreen. For a new driver, that's the smallest bill you'll pay. We rank cars on what they cost after you've bought them.
Cheap to insure
Small, slow-ish, well-understood by insurers. We stick to low insurance groups so your first quote doesn't wipe out your first payslip.
Cheap to run
Light cars with small, efficient engines. Less at the pump every week, and low or free road tax on most of our picks.
Cheap to fix
High-volume models with parts and independent garages everywhere, so a small knock doesn't turn into a big bill.
Six first cars worth a look
A starting point, not the whole market. Insurance groups and running costs are typical figures for the model, your own quote depends on your postcode, cover level and driving history.
City-sized, light steering, dirt cheap to insure. The default answer for a first car and still a good one.
One of the lowest insurance groups on sale new. Look for a used one still inside Kia's long warranty.
Toyota reliability in the smallest package they make. Not exciting, which is exactly the point for year one.
Roomier than most rivals inside, so it doesn't feel like you've outgrown it after six months.
Mechanically a Volkswagen Up under different badges, usually for less money on the used market.
A step up in space without a big step up in insurance. Worth a look if you carry mates or kit around.
*Warranty length depends on registration date and whether it transfers to a second owner, check with the seller. Figures are typical for the model, not a quote for a specific car.
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Real reviews, real prices, no sales patter. We pull the newest shorts from Motorclick automatically, so this list updates on its own.
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The car matters less than you think
Picking a low insurance group car is step one. These five things move your quote just as much, and cost nothing to try before you commit to a car.
Get quotes before you buy, not after
Insurance groups are a guide. Run the actual registration through a comparison site before you commit, prices can differ a lot between near-identical cars.
Consider a black box policy
Telematics policies track how you drive and can cut new-driver premiums significantly if you keep it steady, especially at night.
Add an experienced named driver
Adding a parent with a clean licence as a named driver, not the main policyholder, often brings the price down.
Choose a modest mileage estimate
Be honest, but don't round up. Lower annual mileage estimates generally mean lower premiums.
Check the security rating
Alarms, immobilisers and where you park overnight all factor into the quote. A driveway beats a street space.
First car FAQs
The questions we get asked most by new drivers and their parents.
What's the cheapest type of car to insure for a new driver?
Small hatchbacks with modest engines, generally under 1.2 litres, usually sit in the lowest insurance groups. Cars like the VW Up, Kia Picanto and Toyota Aygo are common starting points. Insurance groups run from 1 to 50, and sticking to groups 1–8 makes the single biggest difference to your first quote.
Why is car insurance so much more expensive for new drivers?
Insurers price on risk, and statistically new drivers have more accidents in their first two years on the road. It's not personal, and it eases off quickly once you build a no-claims history.
Does the colour of a car affect insurance?
Not directly, colour itself isn't a rated factor. What actually moves the price is engine size, insurance group, and the car's theft and claims history for that specific model.
Is a black box worth it for a first car?
Often, yes, especially if you tend to avoid late-night driving and keep things steady. It won't suit every driver, so it's worth comparing a quote with and without one before deciding.
Should I buy new or used for a first car?
Used, nearly always. New cars lose the most value in their first year, so a well-known, reliable model two to four years old gets you most of the reliability without paying for that steep early drop in value.
What's the difference between third party and comprehensive cover?
Third party only covers damage or injury you cause to others. It sounds cheaper, but for new drivers it often costs more than comprehensive, since insurers see third-party-only buyers as higher risk. Always compare both before choosing.
Does adding a parent as a named driver reduce the cost?
It can, particularly when the named driver has a longer clean licence history. One thing to avoid: "fronting", naming a parent as the main driver when the new driver is actually the one using the car most. That's insurance fraud and can void a claim if discovered.
What other costs should I budget for beyond the purchase price?
Insurance, road tax, an MOT once the car passes three years old, servicing, tyres, and fuel. Running costs across a year can rival what you paid for the car itself, which is the whole reason we rank cars the way we do on this site.
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